Converting a 5-string bass to a fretless — Shane Dooley Music
I repeat this is probably the only instance where I will perform this.
I always hold my left hand under the cutter to catch the cut off ends. Its always a good idea to save different kinds of wood dust whenever possible to use in repairs Dust packed into the fret slots Applying the glue 7. I drop the thin superglue right at one fret edge, along the full width of the fingerboard.
On unbound fingerboards, I dab catalyst, then drop medium filling fret slots into the ends of the fret slots. That'll just make it worse. However, the final sand-down should be done using the radius block.
Filling the fret slots Finally! Avoid Gorrilla Glue or anything like that. The steel hammer delivers a much sharper blow that the plastic one, and will drive a fret much faster and more firmly. You want to get it to fit as snugly as possible, even if it means gluing together closest casino to apopka florida couple of layers of it and hand-sanding it down to thickness.
This takes almost no time as I slide the straightedge along, pressing down alternately on one end. Its a nice light color that will contrast well with filling fret slots rosewood board and clearly mark the old fret locations because I'd be lost without them.
After cleaning out the fret slots again with my Japanese pull saw I prepare to fill the slots with wood dust. Check for loose tuner parts.
The steel shim stock protects the guitar top from my file, but I have to be careful at the peghead to avoid nicking it with the file end. In fact you may want to tap them in with a rubber hammer, just to make sure that they're snug. You can trim off the remainder of the laminates using a saw or a chistle. Sideways strokes with a filling fret slots file cut more cleanly, and allow much greater control of the angle of attack.
Stevious G May 5, I'm kinda new here, so I don't know if I'm stepping on any toes by replying to this, but it is a question I've answered a number of times on different boards, and I know the method is "Huff Approved. File fret ends flush and bevel with mill file.
Here I've changed the angle on the back of the neck where it fits in the pocket.
Sight down fingerboard to find high, unseated frets. Tape off the entire fretboard, frets excepted, with masking tape. I never hit a fret with a steel hammer. So, by just pulling the frets and leaving them, or filling them with a sub-par filler, you are flat-out inviting the neck to warp and bow forward under the tension of the strings.
I can cut cleanly just as far down the edge of the fingerboard as I want without any fear of slipping down onto the finished surface of the neck. I'm assuming that the thin superglue runs into the fret slots by capillary attraction and lands on the fret slot wall around the little fret tang barbs.
Ideally, as I lift the guitar to sight straight along the fret tops, they will seem to merge to a single metallic stripe.
Give the board a few passes with the block and a fine-grit sandpaper to make sure that it is nice, smooth and true. I can hit the frets as hard as I want without making a scratch on the fret surface.
Some people use pliers ir a flatblade screwdriver to pry them out. I grind safe edges all around, and taper the ends so they won't bump into the fret ends as I start to level them. Sand board to grit In this case I had to repeat the last two steps of packing the dust and gluing again to fill the slots completely.
As you can see above it's not a pretty sight.
Because wood filler has very, very little compression strength. For a fretless bass I want the option at least of setting it up with a completely flat board or no relief. Removing the Nut I use a quick, sharp blow with a hammer and a piece of wood to crack glue bonds and loosen the nut 2.
And remember, this is the side of the neck that has to fight against the tension of the strings.
Filling fret slots